From Bean to Belonging: Inside Aceh’s Unique Coffee Culture

When people think of Aceh, they often picture its rich history, spicy cuisine, and breathtaking landscapes. But spend a little time here, and one thing becomes clear — coffee is the soul of Aceh. More than just a drink, it’s a living tradition that defines the region’s unique coffee culture, representing friendship, identity, and a way of life passed down through generations.

The Origins of Aceh’s Coffee Culture

Coffee first arrived in Aceh during the Dutch colonial era. Arabica and robusta plants were introduced in the 17th century, but it wasn’t until the late 19th century that the Gayo Highlands became the heart of coffee cultivation.

Coffee farmers harvesting Arabica beans in the Gayo Highlands of Aceh (source: tribungayo.com)

Before coffee, pepper was Aceh’s main export, putting the region on the global trade map long before the first espresso machine existed.

Dutch scholar Snouck Hurgronje once observed that coffee plants in Aceh grew wild in the forests. Over time, these plants evolved into a cornerstone of Acehnese life — influencing the economy, shaping communities, and creating a deep-rooted coffee culture unlike any other in Indonesia.

Coffee Shops: The Heart of Aceh’s Coffee Culture

Walk through any town in Aceh, and you’ll find lively coffee shops (warung kopi) filled with conversation and laughter. These spaces are more than cafés — they are the social heartbeat of the community, where people gather to talk, debate, and share stories.

Anthropologist Reza Idria notes that coffee shops, especially along the coast, have long served as meeting places for people from all walks of life. Discussions can last for hours, flowing from local news to politics and personal tales. In Aceh, coffee doesn’t just fuel the body — it fuels connection.

Bi Kupi Pancong Saboh: Half a Cup, Full of Flavor

One of Aceh’s most distinctive traditions is Bi Kupi Pancong Saboh, literally “half a cup of coffee.” Despite its small size, the flavor packs a punch — bold, aromatic, and full-bodied.

The word pancong means “cut,” referring to the smaller serving, often paired with a traditional pancong cake. Locals have a saying:

“Kupi Sikhan Glah, Peh Bereukah Lua Nanggroe,”
meaning “Even with half a cup, the conversation can travel the world.”

It’s a simple yet profound reminder that in Aceh, coffee isn’t about quantity — it’s about connection.

Aceh’s Signature Coffee Styles

Aceh’s coffee scene offers a rich variety of flavors and brewing methods, each reflecting its deep-rooted traditions. The three most common types you’ll find are:

  • Kopi Hitam (Black Coffee) — pure and strong, brewed using traditional filters.
  • Kopi Susu (Milk Coffee) — smooth and creamy, balancing the richness of the beans.
  • Kopi Sanger — unique to Aceh, this blend of coffee, condensed milk, and a touch of sugar is shaken vigorously for a thick, frothy finish.

Coffee beans in Aceh are typically roasted for up to four hours, mixed with sugar and butter during roasting, then finely ground to create the region’s signature taste — bold, clean, and unforgettable.

Another local favorite is Kupi Khop from Meulaboh, a heritage drink recognized as an Intangible Cultural Treasure of West Aceh. Served upside down, it keeps the coffee warm and dust-free — sipped through a straw or from the saucer below.

The Gayo Highlands: Aceh’s Coffee Treasure

No discussion of Aceh coffee culture is complete without mentioning Gayo Coffee. Grown in the Gayo Highlands — spanning Central Aceh, Bener Meriah, and Gayo Lues — this Arabica variety is celebrated worldwide for its balanced acidity, layered flavors, and distinct aroma.

Gayo coffee is Fair Trade Certified™, ensuring ethical and sustainable farming practices that support local growers.

Besides Arabica, Aceh also produces Robusta coffee, particularly in Ulee Kareng, Banda Aceh, known for its stronger body and higher caffeine content. Together, these varieties make Aceh one of Indonesia’s most important contributors to the global specialty coffee industry.

Aceh: The Land of a Thousand Coffee Shops

Aceh truly lives up to its nickname — “The Land of a Thousand Coffee Shops.” Its coffee culture blends influences from the Ottoman Turks, Chinese traders, and Dutch colonials, yet remains distinctly Acehnese at its core.

Many cafés are located near mosques, allowing people to combine prayer with social gatherings. Even the national hero Teuku Umar once said:

Tomorrow morning we will drink coffee in Meulaboh, or I will die a martyr.

From small roadside warungs to modern cafés, Aceh’s coffee shops are places of connection, storytelling, and community. They embody the warmth and spirit of Aceh — a province where every cup tells a story, and every sip brings people closer together.

Writer: Farsya Sabila
Editor: Tesalonika Kristianti

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